Imbali engaqhelekanga kunye neWavy yeWin Coolers

Ngelo xesha, uCrete wayesebenza kwintengiso yewayini kunye nebhiya, kwaye wabona ithuba. Wazibandakanya nomhlobo wakhe wesikolo samabanga aphakamileyo, uStuart Bewley, owayenedigri yeshishini kunye ne-knack ye-wizardry yezemali. Bobabini babephakathi kwiminyaka engama-20 ngelo xesha, kulula kodwa besenza, kunye nabathengisi bendalo. Bachitha unyaka onesiqingatha begqibezela ifomula, befumana umxube olungileyo weencindi zeziqhamo, iwayini kunye nekhabhoni ukuvelisa isiselo se-citrusy kunye nelanga. Bayipakisha kwiibhotile zeglasi eziluhlaza eziyi-12, kunye neefoyile zegolide ezifakiweyo-ezinje ngebhiya ka-Beck, wandixelela uCrete-wayithengisa ibanda, kwiipakethe ezine.

Kwiintsuku zokuqala, uCrete noBewley babesenza yonke into ngokwabo: ukuxuba iibhetshi ezipholileyo, ukugcwalisa iibhotile, ukuthengisa intengiso, ukuhambisa amatyala kwiivenkile kwi-1953 GMC. Amaqela abo ekugxilwe kuwo yayingamaqela echibini kwindlu katatomkhulu waseCrete, apho benza khona iintlobo ngeentlobo zeziselo ezinxilisayo, kubandakanya iwayini yabo entsha epholileyo, yasimahla yokuthatha. Ngentsasa elandelayo-sakuba sigqibile ukuthatha i-aspirin ukuze sibuyiswe epatini, u-Bewley uyahleka-babala iibhotile, babala yonke into eselwayo. Sifumanise ukuba inani elininzi labantu lisele iicooler wine, utshilo uBewley. Basela enye emva koko basela enye babasela nenye.

ICalifornia Cooler yayiyinto eyahlukileyo. Xa kuthelekiswa newayini enqatyisiweyo kunye nepop, yayinomxholo otywala kakhulu (iipesenti ezi-6 ze-ABV). Ngokwengxelo kaJon Moramarco, umhleli wencwadana yemveliso yewayini kwingxelo kaGomberg-Fredrikson, abantu abanomdla kwezempilo abasele bekhulile ngeminyaka yoo-1980s babeshiya imikhwa yokusela kakhulu ookhokho babo be-martini kwaye bekhangela utywala obuninzi. Iicooler zokusela ngokulula, ezinencasa ngokulunga kwencindi yeziqhamo, ngakumbi ezinomdla kwabasetyhini. Yayiyenye indlela esengqiqweni yokusela ibhiya yeegali, ucacisa uCrete. Yayiyinkangeleko yokunambitheka eyahlukileyo, kodwa kwiphakheji efanayo.

I-California Cooler ikwaxhamle kumdaka wexabiso eliphantsi lewayini. Ukuthengiswa kwewayini e-US kwakunyuke ngeminyaka yoo-1970, kodwa kwehla kwi-go-get-‘em 80s, xa idola elomeleleyo lenza ukungenisa ngaphakathi kukhuphiswano ngakumbi. Oko kushiye abenzi bewayini baseMelika benentsalela enkulu. Kwakukho ichibi, ichibi lewayini e-California, ngo-1981, ukhumbula uBewley. Itanki ngalinye [lokugcina] kurhulumente laligcwele.

Oko uCalifornia Cooler wanikezela ngumbono wobomi njengepati yolwandle engapheliyo. Iintengiso ze-TV zakudala ngoku, ezenziwe yinkampani eyaziwayo yeChiat / Day, zivelise imontage emangazayo yenkcubeko ye-SoCal ye-surf-i-buff hunks kwizikhafu zokubhukuda ezine-zinc-oxide-white nose, blondes blondes in bikinis, izinja ezinxibe iiglasi zelanga-kwi-eephing eyothusayo Ukuqhekeka kwabakwaTrashmen ngo-1963 kwabetha uSurfin 'Bird: Umyalezo wawungakhathali nokuba ubuseNewark, iDes Moines, eBoise, naphina — ungasela into yakho encinci yokuphila eCarlifonia, uchithe iintsuku zakho uzolile kwizipholisi zewayini, usebenza kwitani yakho, kwaye ulinde loo wave ilungileyo.

Ngo-Agasti 1985, kwiminyaka emine emva kokuba bephehlelele iCalifornia Cooler, uCrete noBewley bathengisa inkampani kuBrown-Forman, umnini kaJack Daniels, Southern Comfort, kunye nezinye iimveliso zomoya. Utyalomali lokuqala lweedola ezili-140,000 lwaluqhakazile ngaphezulu kwe- $ 200 yezigidi.

Kodwa yayiyinkampani enkulu yewayini kunye nemimoya eza kulawula, ikhukula ixesha lokuqala leTV kunye neentengiso zazo. Ngo-1985, u-Ernest noJulio Gallo basungula i-Bartles kunye ne-Jaymes ngothotho lweendawo zikamabonakude ezithandwayo ezinamajoni amabini athandekayo, amadala, uFrank Bartles no-Ed Jaymes, abathi bangabenzi be-cooler ye-eponymous. (Babedlalwa nguDavid Rufkahr, umfuyi weenkomo wase-Oregon, kunye noDick Maugg, ikhontrakthi yaseCalifornia. UKrete wandixelela ukuba uFrank noEd ziinguqulelo zakhe nezikaBewley. Akuthandabuzeki.) Kungekudala bathathe indawo ephezulu ukusuka eCalifornia Cooler.

I-Seagram yayingumzuzwana osondeleyo. Umntu wabo owayephethe ibhola yayinguBruce Willis, kweyakhe Ukukhanya kwenyanga iintsuku, ngaphambi Kunzima, umva xa wayeseneenwele ezininzi kwaye yayiyeyona testosterone popsicle. Uhamba phambili kwi-neon New York enxibe isuti emhlophe kwiklabhu epholileyo yewayini engaphantsi komhlaba; ubeka inyathelo kuSharon Stone, omphikisayo ngokupholileyo; ucula iblue guy emhlophe evarandeni nenja enesibindi. Imanzi kwaye iyomile— lonto yayingumgca wethegi kaSeagram. Kwakukho ne-Sun Country Wine Coolers, eyathi yagaya uluhlu lwabantu abadumileyo- u-Ringo Starr, u-Grace Jones, u-Charo, ngamanye amaxesha benxibe iimpahla ze-polar bear-ngenxa yeentengiso zayo ezingaqhelekanga kodwa ezinyanzelisayo.

Kulapho i-arc yokuphola kwewayini epholileyo ifikelela kwinqanaba layo, kwaye iqala ukuchaza parabola yokutsiba ngaphezulu kukakrebe. Umqondiso wokuqala wengxaki yayiziincasa. Umbono waseCrete weCalifornia Cooler yayinencasa enye yeklasikhi. Sifuna ukuba yiCoca Cola, wandixelela uCrete, hayi uBaskin-Robbins. Kodwa njengoko ukhuphiswano lwalushushu, iicoolers zewayini zaqala ukulahla incasa ezintsha: i-citrus, ipesika, i-apple-cranberry, iberry edityanisiweyo, i-passionfruit, i-strawberry, i-cherry. Ngaba ezi ntlobo zintsha zazisiphumo esisengqiqweni sokwandiswa kwegama, okanye isiphithiphithi sodidi olufayo, luvelisa iintlobo eziguqukayo ngethemba lokuba umntu unokufumana indawo yazo?

Xa isiphelo sifikile sokupholisa iwayini, yeza ngokukhawuleza. Emva kowe-1987 wonyaka ophakamileyo, ukuthengiswa okupholileyo kwehle ngeepesenti eziphindwe kabini ngo-1988, 1989, nango-1990. Kwakukho neengozi phakathi kwabafana abakhulu. U-Anheuser-Busch watsala uDewey Forman kwintengiso kwiminyaka emibini emva kokumiliselwa; UMiller wabulala ukuphola kweMatilda Bay ngo-1989. UBrown Forman wonzakalisa iCalifornia Cooler phaya ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-1990.

Isalathiso esinye sobumnene sisenokuba lula apho unokufumana khona ipakethi ezine zeBartles kunye neeJaymes. Ndihlala kwiblokhi enye yaseBrooklyn apho uBiggie akhulele khona, kodwa iivenkile kunye notywala ezivenkileni ezikufutshane nam zixabisekile, zineebhokisi zebhonkco ezikhethwe ngononophelo. Kuya kufuneka ndizulazulise kude, kwivenkile ene-plexiglass ejikeleze irejista, ukufumana i-Piña Colada- kunye ne-Sangria-flavored Bartles kunye ne-Jaymes, kunye nebhotile eqaqambileyo ye-12-ounce ye-Seagram's Escapes, kwincasa ebizwa ngokuba yiJamaican Me Uyolo. Iicooler esekwe eMalt zizuze njengelifadesi isiselo esimdaka se-baroque se-flavour epholileyo yewayini, kunye ne-Day-Glo yabo ithatha iitropiki, kunye nokubongoza kwabo okunzima kwezinye iziselo ezinqwenelekayo.

Isizukulwana esitsha sokupholisa iwayini, nangona kunjalo, siya kuba sekhaya ngokugqibeleleyo kwivenkile ethengisa i-bougie boutique. Udidi olukhulayo lokupholisa iwayini-ukusuka kwiimpawu ezinje ngeSt. Mayhem, iHoxie, iPampelonne, kunye neBlossom Brothers-zihlakulela umfanekiso wobugcisa, zilanda imvelaphi yazo kwizidiliya kunye nokutya okumnandi, endaweni yokuqhushumba ipati yaselwandle.

UJordani Salcito, umdali weRamona (iwayini, kodwa epholileyo, ngumgca wethegi yayo) uneziqinisekiso ezingathandekiyo ze-oenophile. Usebenze njenge sommelier e-NYC u-tony Eleven Madison Park, ebengumlawuli we wayini kunye neziselo eMomofuku, ebekwa ngexesha kwizidiliya eBurgundy nase Tuscany. Uyakhumbula encwina into ebandayo kwisikolo samabanga aphakamileyo — ndandiqala ukubona Ipulp engeyonyani , ukhumbula ubusuku-kodwa eyona mpembelelo yokwenyani kuRamona yayiyi-Aperol spritz eyayisela emva kwesivuno esiyintlekele, nesibilayo eMontalcino. Wayefuna ukwenza la mava e-oasis yolonwabo afumaneke ngokubanzi, kwiitoti ezilungele ukuselwa.

URamona-ewe, ogama lingu-Beverly Cleary we-heroine ongenakunqunyulwa-luhlobo lwe-Hegelian synthesis of lowbrow day-drinking hooch and highbrow cocktail culture. Yehla ngokulula njenge-zinfandel emhlophe emhlophe kwindlu yolutsha, kodwa ngobukrakra obunobunzima kunye nokukhaba okumuncu-asidi; yenziwe ngeediliya zeZibibbo ezivela eSicily. Kutshanje uSalcito utyikitye isivumelwano ne-Whole Foods, eza kuqala ukuthwala uRamona kwiivenkile zayo ngeli hlobo.

Iincasa zeebougie zewayini ezipholileyo zanamhlanje zithambekele kwi-herbal, botanical, and bittersweet, catnip ye-palate ephucukileyo, eqondayo. Ezi zipholileyo zewayini zingenakho okufanayo, ukunambitha, kunye ne-citrus tropical, ipesika kunye ne-wildberry epholile yore. Kodwa babelana ngobuntununtunu obufanayo kunye nabandulelayo-ukuzibophelela kwixesha elimnandi, ukwala ukuthatha nantoni na ebaluleke kakhulu, ukuthembeka okupholileyo.

Imbali iyaziphinda. Kolu phindo lungaqhelekanga lwee-1980s esiphila kuzo-umongameli weRiphabhlikhi oxineneyo, ukunyuka kokungalingani kwezoqoqosho, ukungavisisani ngendlela ye-Cold War, imeko ezayo yentsimbi yenyukliya-ingaba kuyamangalisa na ukuba iicooler coole zibuyile? Iicooler wine zibhiyozela lo mxube ungenantlonelo; i-buzz eyonqenayo, emva kwemini; umfazi ongathandabuzekiyo.

Bonke bayabulela ukuza kwabo okwesibini.